I led a fairly sheltered food life in the Deep South where I grew up. Oakwood, Ga., was not exactly a Mecca of diverse food options.

College in Athens, Ga., widened the doors a bit more, but it was not until I established myself in Atlanta that I really began to experience the many foods aligned with cultures other than my own.

My first authentic Jewish deli experience was at Katz’s delicatessen. Long since closed, you'll find much nostalgia in the Atlanta area for this beloved purveyor of food and culture that ruled the corner of Cheshire Bridge Road and Lavista for many years.

It was at Katz’s I learned to love a platter of Lox and cream cheese accompanied by a bevy of raw veggies aside a fat sesame seed bagel. Many a weekend would find me in a well-worn booth with friends, pretending to have enlightened conversation, but actually giving 90 percent of my attention to the food.

Here’s the other thing I remember with absolute clarity about Katz’s Deli — the vat of kosher pickles that sat on every table, there for the munching before and after the arrival of your food.

No matter what time of day I took my place at a booth, the first order of business was fishing around in the salty brine for a crunchy pickle. These were pickles, but they were also still cucumbers, if you get my drift. The crunch, the salt, the bite of dill — all combined for a most satisfying morsel of goodness.

After Katz’s departed the Atlanta food scene some 25 years ago, I set out to find a similar pickle. You can’t buy these in your local supermarket. Some of the refrigerated pickles may bear a slight resemblance, but ultimately, they fall short.

A few years ago in the height of cucumber season, I came across a Mark Bittman recipe for “kosher pickles made the right way.” There is no vinegar in these pickles — the kosher salt does all the work.

The secret is to find the freshest pickling cucumbers available. Last year, I planted four cucumber vines and had more cucumbers than I could eat or pickle. This year, I cut back to two and I have harvested only two cucumbers. Gardening is nothing if not inconsistent.

But thank goodness the good farmers who sell at Allegri Farm Market in Daphne have been there for me this summer. Right now, the pickling cucumbers are perfect. Find yourself a couple of pounds, spend ten minutes in the kitchen and then be patient.

In a day, you will have the perfect accompaniment for summer grilling. Or, if you are like me, just pull up your chair next to a vat and munch away.

Ingredients

• 1/3 cup kosher salt
• 1 cup boiling water
• 2 pounds Kirby cucumbers, washed (scrub if spiny) and halved or quartered lengthwise
• 5 or more garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 large bunch fresh dill (preferably with flowers), or 2 tablespoons dried dill and 1 teaspoon dill seeds, or 1 tablespoon coriander seeds

Preparation

Combine the salt and boiling water in a large bowl; stir to dissolve the salt.

Add a handful of ice cubes to cool the mixture, then add all the remaining ingredients.

Add cold water to cover. Use a plate slightly smaller than the diameter of the bowl and a small weight to keep the cucumbers immersed. Set aside at room temperature.

Begin sampling the cucumbers after 4 hours if you’ve quartered them, 8 hours if you’ve halved them. In either case, it will probably take from 12 to 24 or even 48 hours for them to taste pickly enough to suit your taste.

When they are ready, refrigerate them in a closed container, still in the brine. The pickles will continue to ferment as they sit, more quickly at room temperature, more slowly in the refrigerator.

They will keep well for up to a week.