Way back when I was about 20 years old, I decided to try to make my own wine. I learned a lot in the process and decided that would probably be my only attempt.

Actually, it wasn't too bad but way too sweet for my taste. That is because it was made from scuppernongs, one of the sweetest fruits on God's green earth. Recently, they have been the topic of health reports claiming the high content of antioxidants found in the southern version of the grape family. The reason I am writing about them this time of year is that the vines should be planted in winter, and if you plant some now you just may have a crop ripe this August for your own winemaking. I need to talk to my colleague Kitti Cooper for some guidance in growing them.

All that is needed for homemade wine is fruit, a crock and a cloth covering. / Harriet Outlaw, GCM Contributor

Scuppernongs are among the easiest fruits to use for wine and thrive here in the South. They are a type of muscadine, bronze in color, whereas muscadines are dark. The edible skin is tough, but most people squeeze the viscous fruit and juice inside the mouth then spit out the seeds. I always think of an eyeball when I see the inside of the fruit.

Way back when it was not easy to find wine making instructions, I learned from an old farmer friend in Georgetown. His wife was a teetotaler, but I saw her drench her Christmas fruitcake every day for a month. Amazing fruitcake!

To prepare the fruit for my attempt at winemaking, I first washed my feet! I stomped the berries in a galvanized tub, put the crushed fruit into a crockery pot, put in a little yeast and covered it with a cheesecloth. Actually, I used old cloth diapers; there is nothing like them. I watched it foam as it fermented and smelled it all over the house for about two weeks. I figured that was killing any germs I may have picked up from my feet or the washtub. After straining it and moving it to a jug, it seasoned for about a month before it reached its full potential. It was good enough to drench my own fruitcakes that year. Of course, my primitive attempt was nothing like professional winemaker practices used in Perdido Vineyards in the northeast part of Baldwin County.

Provided by Harriet Outlaw.

I know countless articles have been written about Jim Eddins and Perdido Vineyards, but I just have to acknowledge this amazing contribution to Baldwin County once again. I had a most entertaining visit this week with the staff who are keeping the tradition alive and prosperous since Jim's death in 2021. They tell the most entertaining stories you must go hear for yourself. William Sangster was hired as manager and takes pride in the success of the products that are retailed nationwide. Jim hired Theresa Grundman away from The Baldwin Times to help him with several projects, one of which was to write his story, and she is still planning to do just that. The production guy is Lee Newton, who knows everything there is to know about scuppernongs and winemaking.

Their stories all start with the background of Jim Eddins, who grew up at the family business Cliff's Landing and moved back to Baldwin County after retiring from the Marines. His love for his wife, Marianne, who he met while working as an engineer in Washington, D.C. is the theme of his story. She was a wine connoisseur, and they tried all they could find around here, which weren't many at that time. He once said he would swim Mobile Bay to get a wine she liked.

Jim and his wife, Marianne, moved to Baldwin County in the early 1970s and founded Perdido Vineyards in 1979. / Harriet Outlaw, GCM Contributor

And, then, while dining at Bartel's Restaurant and Winery in Pensacola, she tasted muscadine wine, and "eureka!" Jim bought all he could from Bartel's, but when he found out that Mr. Weaver of Bartell's could not find enough muscadines for wine production to meet the demand, Jim decided to solve that problem by planting 50 acres of vines he ordered from Roanoke Island. When Bartel's closed, Jim faced a new challenge. His mother suggested he produce his own wine, and a new chapter in his life began. He met challenges at every turn but refused to take no for an answer.

Jim started working to get approval to open the first retail winery in Baldwin County since prohibition. The Alabama Legislature approved it in 1979, but Jim had trouble securing a loan until he made a phone call to his old Naval Academy buddy, President Jimmy Carter. The banks approved the loan the next day, and the winery soon became a large enterprise winning many competitions and awards, but every single step has to be approved by the state of Alabama. You wouldn't believe the binder full of permits and licenses Theresa keeps on file. Jim branched out into vinegars, rums and brandies, and during COVID-19 he produced hand sanitizer. They also have a great market for the healthy muscadine juice.

The bottling room with a wine vat in the background. / Harriet Outlaw, GCM Contributor

The varieties of wine labels range from sweet red to dry white and are named with local interests in mind. They make wines from other fruits as well. Lee said the satsuma wine is a mess to produce — I guess he is the one who has to clean up the presses. To me, it is one of the best.

And as to the labels, the vineyard has won numerous awards for the creative graphics displayed on the bottles. In fact, each label has a story of its own, and I plan to collaborate with Theresa to write them all down! She has files and notebooks galore full of notes about every step of Jim's journey.

I saved the best story 'til last: I will never forget my first visit there in around 1982. We happened to be there at the same time the altar guild ladies from the Episcopal church were selecting the Eucharist wine. They had Jim give them a taste of every kind he had. Then they asked for another round of "nectar of the gods," as they called it, and we were beginning to get concerned about them driving home when they couldn't stop giggling. When they finally made their purchase, we were much relieved to see the priest was waiting in the car to transport them home. We chatted with the priest as they finalized their visit and toddled to the car, "I guess you are glad this is done for a while."

The staff at Perdido Vineyards share their passion for the winery with every visitor. Pictured are Theresa Grundman, manager William Sangster and winemaker Lee Newton in the retail shop. / Harriet Outlaw, GCM Contributor

"Ha," he laughed, "we do this every week. This is their social outing."

We all had a good laugh and talked about it every time we saw Jim after that.

The website and staff can offer details on the history, products and services offered, such as wedding and party venues. William said that once at a bridal shower, a group of bikers showed up and bombed the photos. How lucky can you get? I'd love to see those photos. This column can only skim the fermented foam off the surface of the story of Perdido Vineyards, but the staff is happy to welcome you. They provide meeting space for groups and conduct group tours, so put a visit there on your list of places to see in our county — and try to go when the altar guild or bikers are there!

Perdido Winery was the first commercial venture to be licensed in Alabama since before prohibition The muscadine vines on the 50 acres are the original ones purchased from Roanoke Island. / Harriet Outlaw, GCM Contributor